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KwaZulu-Natal

RRichards Bay has some of the most spectacular wetland scenery and unspoilt beaches on the north coast of KwaZulu-Natal. The Zululand Birding Route includes Richards Bay Harbour and the Game Reserve, known also as New Mouth, on its route. This part of the route covers sandbanks, mud flats, extensive mangroves, freshwater pans and forest areas and bird watchers can spot a number of rarities such as the cuckoo hawk and pygmy goose. New Mouth features a number of aquatic birds as well as hippos and crocodiles. A trip to Richard’s Bay is not complete without a visit to a township called Esikhaleni. The township is home to a vibrant market and traditional eateries. The Saturday market is home to small vendors' stalls with fruits and vegetables, fish and clothing. 

Known as the Complex, the market is a drawcard for travellers, who want to get a slice of Africa when visiting this northern part of KwaZulu-Natal. 

Known as the Complex, the market is a drawcard for travellers, who want to get a slice of Africa when visiting this northern part of KwaZulu-Natal. 

The fruits and vegetable stalls display a section of healthy items, from sweet potatoes, banana and oranges. Not far from the stall is a Zulu art vendor who sells beaded artwork and clothing. A man by the name of Oja Dav shows off his linguistic talent when he speaks Hindi and Nepali to us.  He travels as far as India and Nepali to purchase attire for his small stall. The fish market is a hive of activity. The females lay the fish on small tables covered with newspapers. 

Did You Know?
RRichards Bay is situated on a 30km2 lagoon of the Mhlatuze River, which gives it one of the country's largest harbours. Richards Bay also has the deepest natural harbour on the continent.

TThe day before the women venture to Cwebeni to catch fish. 

There are stalls who prepare the fish for peckish marketgoers. There is something for everyone. The women can get their nails done in little gazebos, while the men sample corn cooked on an open fire. 

Visitors’ safety is of paramount importance. According to Hlengiwe Ntanzi, tour operators have partnered with police to make sure that travellers shop with no fear. Ntanzi, who owns a tavern in the area, said that Esikhaleni is a unique offering that all people should experience. 

Esikeleni

Food
When to visit
How to get here

“Great stories about our township are waiting to be told. Tours usually take place in an hour, followed by a shisa nyama at a local eatery. During the journey, travellers will get to see and hear about the heroes, the monuments and stories that make this place special,” she said. 

Formerly a rice plantation, the township was born in the early 1970s with the first house built in 1975. Ntanzi talks about Cubhu Lake. There are stories about the Shembe church followers who stopped a crocodile from devouring a person at the lake. There hasn't been a crocodile related incident since. 

Other attractions include monuments of the king of the Zulu Kingdom, Cetshwayo kaMpande, who ruled from 1873 to 1879, and Musa Dladla, a freedom stalwart. Esikhaleni Beach proves a fun day outing.

Shisa nyama, (a barbecue or braai where friends or families, come together to grill meat on an open fire). joints are quite popular, and there are many to choose from. Dumile’s Busy Corner opened in April 2017. The owner, Dumile Chonco, resigned as a nurse to pursue her passion for food. Her signature dishes are Zulu chicken, jeqe, spinach and ox head. 

She also believes in uplifting her community. She started a jazz club that offers emerging artists a chance to perform over weekends. 

“I remember going to Vilakazi Street and wanting to have a place like the spots I saw there. We are about the food and showing people a good time,” she said. 

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