Shebeens – your uniquely South African local tavern experience

IIn apartheid South Africa, music, meeting in groups of more than three people, and even dancing were illegal. The taverns became a form of quiet protest. This was a place where patrons could express themselves culturally, and meet and discuss their day. Shebeens therefore played a unifying role in the community, providing a sense of identity and belonging.

Naturally, they also served as places where people could discuss politics—and in some places, plan for freedom. The police raided these shebeens constantly, arresting shebeen queens and political dissidents.

TToday, shebeens are a permanent feature of the South African social scene. Older establishments will have an incredible story or two, with old photographs on the wall, and probably some jazz playing in the background. You’ll also be treated to traditional dishes such as umfino (similar to spinach), samp (crushed maize), stew, pap (fine maize meal cooked to a firm consistency) and chakalaka (a spicy traditional condiment).

As South Africa’s cultural landscape becomes more integrated, modern shebeen-style nightclubs and eateries are opening up in areas where the new middle-class work and play.