By creating an account, I agree to the
Terms of service and Privacy policy
Choose your country and language:
Africa
Americas
Asia Pacific
Europe
TThere is a bend on the Umngazi River where the thick brown water touches the lower branches of the trees on its banks and, if you look up, at the green slopes of the hills beyond, the wild beauty is so breathtaking that you cannot help falling in love.
Fish eagles and yellow-billed kites swoop low and fast, snatching silverfish from the shallows, while pied kingfishers hover and dive and, in the wake of boats. Even the spotted grunter become playful and seem to leap for joy.
The Umngazi flows into the sea about 10km west of Port St Johns on the Wild Coast. At its mouth, which cuts across a wide white beach, is the Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa, built on a hillside that overlooks a river and ocean.
For decades this has been South Africa’s premier honeymoon destination. Remote, private and so wonderfully romantic, one can only smile at the happy memories this place must have given to so many people.
Did You Know?
PPort St Johns is halfway between Durban and East London and is the biggest town on the Wild Coast.
AAlthough I was a first-time visitor to the resort, there were memories here for me too. My granny recovered here after my grandfather died in 1972. I imagined her writing letters under the Umdoni trees and watching the big-horned nguni cows on the far bank make their way to the beach to bask all day in the sun.
This is a place with special meaning for people. A visit leaves memories that last a lifetime and, during a sunset cruise, I understood why people left their hearts on the Wild Coast.
Umngazi River Bungalows
TThe drive to Umngazi from Durban took almost six hours. Old hands say it is best to leave early to make it through the villages of Bizana, Flagstaff and Lusikisiki before they get busy. They are intimidating at 3pm on a Friday. The Eastern Cape roads are pot-holed and slow with cattle, goats, donkeys and dogs being constant hazards. After Port St Johns the journey to the river mouth is still a good way along a winding tarred track. This is not a trip to be rushed but should be seen as part of the adventure.
Each bungalow at Umngazi feeds off a footpath and all are tucked away behind the coastal vegetation. Some have been designed with outdoor showers.
The public areas include a TV lounge, inviting book-reading couches, a pub, a gym, a games room, a kiddie play area, a pool and, best of all, a huge old-fashioned dining room and deck where meals are served.
Who to contact?
How to get here?
Best time to visit?
What to pack?
FFood is the focus of life at Umngazi River Bungalows for many guests and, I think, a big part of why so many come back year after year. The first evening we enjoyed a set menu of soup, mussels, lamb chops, baked apples, cheese and coffee. In the morning the breakfast buffet was overflowing with home-baked bread and pastries, sweet fruits, crispy bacon and good coffee. And then followed lunch: cheese, biscuits, salads and burgers if you could find the space. On Saturday evening, not even a flutter of a breeze disturbed the candles flickering on tables set up under the stars.
The seafood buffet started with a clam chowder that was enough for me, but it was impossible to resist the fresh prawns, prawn curry and fish. Afterwards, there was sticky toffee pudding and custard or fruit and a coconut tartlet. It wasn’t possible to taste everything, but it was lovely to see the enjoyment on guests’ faces. After all the eating, lying next to the pool is tempting. However, there is much to see and do. A walk to the nearby village with a basket weaving demonstration was ideal for moms with little children or the elderly who didn’t want to undertake anything too strenuous. For the very fit, there were hikes along the ridge overlooking the ocean or trips to see the Blow Hole. There's also dune boarding, canoeing and mountain biking. There is an on-site spa for those who feel like a pamper session.
Ours was a short stay but even so, there were tears when we had to leave. “Promise me, promise me we can come back,” my little boy begged.
Without a doubt, we will make the journey again. Umngazi has to rate as one of our country’s loveliest holiday destinations.
Related articles
South Africa on social media
Useful links
Explore
