The Upper Karoo Route: meander through Northern Cape from Victoria West to Calvinia

IIf you want a South African road trip that offers riverine rabbits, spiritual skies, corbelled houses, the presence of space-listening telescopes, windmill landscapes and small towns that know little of stress, traffic and deadlines, then hit the Upper Karoo Route, which winds through Northern Cape province from Victoria West to Calvinia. 

Your journey through the upper Karoo begins in a tiny Anglican church in Victoria West, where you can gaze up at the stained-glass windows. Some of the scenes they portray date back to a devastating flood that hit the small town in 1871. More than 60 people were killed when a wall of water, following a typical Karoo cloudburst, rushed down the gorge where Victoria West stands. Of the victims, 21 were revellers dancing at Quirk’s Hotel that night. 

A good bet for accommodation here is Die Pophuis Hoekie (‘the doll’s house corner’), which offers self-catering cottages along the main street. In spring, the daisies come out all over, lining the sidewalks and adding even more flair to the Victorian-era buildings. 

The next morning, after taking your leave of the sights of Victoria West, head west along the R63 to Loxton, which is about 80km away. This little sheep-farming centre has a special charm – which comes complete with water furrows and donkey carts meandering in the streets. 

 Apart from being a favoured Karoo hideaway for Capetonians, Loxton is also the official headquarters of the Riverine Rabbit Working Group, which is trying to manage and save the highly endangered and last few hundred riverine rabbits still living in the region. 

Enjoy a long lunch at Die Rooi Granaat (‘the red pomegranate’) and spend the afternoon exploring the neighbourhood, before staying over in Loxton – you might want to check in at one of the many self-catering cottages in the town and enjoy a braai under the Karoo stars. 

The next day, a relaxed drive north along the R63 with stops to take in the view will still get you to Carnarvon before lunch. There are some special places to see in this little town, including the local museum with its reconstructed corbelled house. There’s also the Blikkies (Cans) Bar in the local hotel, where you can have a drink surrounded by wall-to-wall beer cans. There’s a jukebox in the corner, so you can play a couple of classics before you move on. 

Carnarvon’s main attraction, although access is restricted so you won’t be able to see it up close, is the Square Kilometre Array – the famous radio telescope field about 80km away; a project that involves 12 different countries. Once complete, it will be the world’s biggest telescope complex – a very exciting coup for South Africa and its space scientists. 

Consider spending the night at Stuurmansfontein Guest House, an hour outside Carnarvon – an original corbelled farmhouse built in the mid-1800s. The next day, head for Williston, nearly 120km to the west along the R63. 

You can arrive in time for lunch at Williston Mall, after wandering around the recycled art, the little bookshop and curio stalls. Make sure your lunch includes the legendary Williston Milkshake. 

If you’re visiting during the annual Williston Winter Festival, you’ll see people of all cultures come together to feast and dance. 

After a night in Williston, continue west along the R63 to your last destination on this route: Calvinia. This is another of those attractive, energetic little Karoo towns where many residents are tourism-savvy. Stay in one of the Hantam Huis cottages and spend some time wielding your camera at the local flower reserve, getting better acquainted with the daisies.  

It’s a great trip if you want to soak up the peace of the deep Karoo…