Sani Pass, KwaZulu-Natal: gateway to the mountain kingdom of Lesotho

TThe Sani Pass is a zig-zagging dirt-road drive up the Drakensberg from KwaZulu-Natal into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho – so if you’re not powered by mountain-bike pedals or your own 2 feet, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is required. 

In the mid-1950s, Sani Pass was no more than a pony trail dropping from the eastern highlands of then-Basutholand (now Lesotho) into what was then the province of Natal. It was a prolific trade route, used to ferry Lesotho wool and mohair for barter with the country stores in South Africa. 

In 1955 the trade route concept was broadened by David Alexander, followed by the formation of the Mokhotlong Mountain Transport Company, which built a depot at the top of the pass. 

A basic hostelry was also set up at the top of the pass, within Lesotho, to shelter travellers and traders from harsh winter conditions. It still houses Africa’s highest pub and boasts one of the finest mountain views on the continent. Home-cooked soups and breads are a popular repast – and the pub is well-known for its fireside atmosphere. 

Hikers, 4-wheel drive enthusiasts, mountain bikers and mountaineers have long favoured this challenging part of the Drakensberg mountain range, and the pub still features the accounts of many intrepid adventurers who have made their way up the pass using various modes of transport. In the old days, rusted car wrecks were testament to the treacherous nature of the pass and its ice-covered hairpin bends. 

The route to the pass is more easily accessible today, thanks to a major resurfacing project, but caution is always advised, as there's not much room for error. In good weather, a drive to the top from the little town of Underberg in KwaZulu-Natal will take about 2 hours. 

If you’re a skier, the Sani Pass area offers great skiing opportunities in winter, about 25 minutes’ drive into Lesotho on the road to Mohotlong. Before embarking on the final steep ascent up the pass you will pass through the border post, so make sure you take your passport with you. 

There are many organised tours up the pass in 4-wheel drive vehicles driven by experienced guides. The trip usually includes a brief foray into a nearby hamlet in Lesotho, where you have time to meet the locals and sample their beer and bread. 

Birders will be delighted to know that the Sani Pass is a premier South African birding spot, particularly for those hard-to-find endemic species that birders love to tick. In the environs you will find the majestic bearded vulture, the Cape vulture, the canary-like Drakensberg siskin, the wattled crane and the bush blackcap. 

If you enjoy a challenging drive, stupendous views, the chance to spot rare vultures and out-of-the-way destinations – and you have a 4-wheel drive vehicle – a trip up Sani Pass just makes sense.