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WWhen people inform you that the Karoo, South Africa’s arid heartland, is flat and featureless, it might reveal 2 things about them 1) They were fast asleep when someone drove them through the Karoo, and 2) They have never actually been to the Karoo.
That’s because in 99% of the Karoo, you’re always within sight of a mountain range, an outcrop of conical hills and, in many parts of the Little Karoo, surrounded by craggy peaks.
Except when you drive into the little Eastern Cape village of Rietbron, on the R306 between Beaufort West and Willowmore.
Maybe it’s the heat, the dust, maybe it’s the dancing mirages, but here as you stand in the centre of Rietbron and look all about you, it is indeed ‘flat and featureless’. Rietbron is in a barren part of Die Vlakte (the plains), and its main attribute lies in the hearts of the people who live there. And, of course, the vibrant mohair industry that stretches from here to Willowmore and Jansenville in the east.
The local Dutch Reformed church has a strong congregation and a lively set of legends to go with it. Here’s the story about the long-winded Dominee Kruger: 'Sunday sermons were recorded, and the recordings were taken around to various aged church members during the week so they could also hear the word.
'One Sunday afternoon Dominee Kruger was curious to hear how his own voice sounded on tape. So, after lunch, he made himself comfortable and switched on the recorder to listen to himself. He woke up as the congregation was singing the closing hymn…'
The village hosts an annual sporting festival in aid of the local primary school that is attended by loyal ‘Rietbronners’ from all over South Africa. And because Rietbron is truly ‘in the middle of nowhere’, it has become a firm favourite with weekenders yearning for an escape to a place where nothing really happens…
Did You Know?
Travel tips & planning info
Who to contact
Baviaans Tourism
Tel: +27(0)44 923 1702
Cell: +27(0)83 420 5434
email: tourism@baviaans.co.za
How to get here
Rietbron lies on the R306 between Beaufort West and Willowmore. It's about 100km from Beaufort West, or a little over an hour's drive. It's a decent dirt road, but take it easy, nevertheless.
Best time to visit
Come at the change of seasons - March/April, September/October to avoid excessive heat or cold. Visit in the shoulder seasons of spring (September to October) and autumn (April/May).
Things to do
Arrange some farm visits to see Karoo life in the raw.
What to pack
Nights can be chilly in Rietbron, even in summer. Pack warm clothes for just in case.
Where to stay
Karoo Hof Guest House (076 903 0246) and Leina D (076 907 1045). Both are self-catering, so bring some groceries with you, although Karoo Hof can provide meals if booked in advance. Both Beaufort West and Willowmore have a number of food stores where you can stock up.
What to eat
You're in the Karoo, so it's time to barbecue some lamb chops, which are a local specialty.
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