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From courthouse to grand hotel
The Drostdy Hotel, Graaff-Reinet
The historic Drostdy Hotel in Graaff-Reinet, Karoo.
© Chris Marais
Did you know?
Graaff-Reinet is the 4th-oldest town in South Africa after Cape Town, Stellenbosch and Swellendam.
The historical heart of Graaff-Reinet, the Eastern Cape town known as the ‘gem of the Karoo’, is Parsonage Street.
Its charming array of historic homes – some of them converted into upmarket restaurants and shops – is bookended by the Drostdy Hotel in the west and the Reinet House Museum in the east.
At the turn of the 18th century, Graaff-Reinet lay in the heart of frontier bandit country. Lawlessness and rebellion were rife, and the government of the day decided to establish a strong magisterial presence in the town.
In 1804 construction began on a majestic new drostdy – local magisterial headquarters – designed by French architect Louis Michel Thibault. Two years later it was completed, and served as the seat of local law for more than 40 years.
As courtroom facilities needed to expand, this building became the magistrate’s residence.
After a long stint as a private home, it was relaunched as the Drostdy Hotel.
Enter legendary hotelier David Rawdon, who was commissioned by the ‘patron’ of Graaff-Reinet, businessman Anton Rupert, to restore and develop the Drostdy into 1 of the top heritage hotels in South Africa.
As you sit and take tea on the front porch of the hotel at the old facade entrance, you can watch the passing parade of a Karoo settlement: farmers, townsfolk, travellers and truckers sharing the main road.
In the Drostdy Hotel's garden, however, it’s all about the birds that seem to gather in great numbers wherever a feeder is hung.
Because of the summer heat that bakes down on this part of the world, the hotel keeps its gardens shaded and its pool sparkling.
Your choice of accommodation ranges from the main hotel rooms, a mix of air-conditioned hi-tech and antique pieces from the early frontier days, to the colourfully shuttered units of Stretch’s Court, where emancipated slaves were once housed.
Before his passing in 2010, Rawdon – who had also owned the historical Lanzerac and Lord Milner hotels – said his 1 regret about his working life was that he had not bought the Drostdy Hotel.
But his grand restoration work on the property lives on, and delights the many travellers who enjoy the hotel every year.
Travel tips & Planning info
Who to contact
Drostdy Hotel
Tel: +27 (0)49 892 2161
Email:info@drostdy.co.za
Karoo Connections
Tel: +27 (0)49 892 3978
Mobile: +27 (0)82 339 8646
Email: karooconnections@intekom.co.za
Graaff-Reinet Tourism
Tel: +27(0)49 892 4248
Email: tercia@graaffreinet.co.za
How to get here
The closest airport is in Port Elizabeth, about 250km away, a 2.5-hour drive. Take the R75 north and then join the N9 to get to Graaff-Reinet. If you’re coming from Cape Town, it’s about 7-hours’ easy drive via Beaufort West. The Drostdy Hotel is situated on the main road through the town, at 30 Church Street.
Around the area
The town is surrounded by the Camdeboo National Park, and the view from its hilltops down onto the town is astounding.
Tours to do
Try the day trips to the Valley of Desolation and Nieu Bethesda village in the Sneeuberg, or a drive out to Samara Private Game Reserve with local tour operator, Karoo Connections.
Get around
The many sights of Graaff-Reinet are mostly within walking distance of the Drostdy Hotel. For visits to outlying places of interest, like the Valley of Desolation look-out point, it is advisable to book a tour or drive up there in your own vehicle.
What will it cost
The Drostdy Hotel’s rates range from R975 for a standard double room to R1 670 per suite (both for 2 people sharing), with breakfast included.
Length of stay
There’s a lot to see and do in this part of the Karoo, so spend at least 2 days at the Drostdy Hotel if you can.
What to pack
Pack a jacket (even in summer, when nights can be unexpectedly chilly) and bring comfortable walking shoes.
What to eat
Try the traditional bean soup and Karoo lamb at The Landdrost, the restaurant at the Drostdy Hotel.
What's happening
Graaff-Reinet stages an agricultural festival in October that is a wonderful window into life in the Karoo. Also, in December, the people of Acacia Street festoon their road with Christmas lights and hold a street party in aid of charity.
Best buys
Visit Eira Maasdorp at Reinet Antiques in the main road and potter about her fascinating shop – you’re bound to find something precious.