Leliefontein

Leliefontein Lodge's matjieshuise, Namaqualand.

© Chris Marais

• Email
• Tweet
• Print

Leliefontein, a historic little village in Namaqualand, nestles alongside the road between Kamieskroon and Garies.

It is set among hills and is somewhat hidden from sight. In fact, the only thing that alerts you to the town is a battered sign and an enormous radio mast. But turn in, and you’ll find an intriguing little village with a long history.

The houses are mostly simple and square, facing east to shelter against the prevailing westerly winds. Most yards have fruit trees and a reed cooking shelter, and a dog or 2.

Leliefontein, set in what used to be a 'coloured' reserve during the apartheid years, was founded in 1816 at the request of the then-inhabitants, who implored a passing Methodist missionary, Barnabas Shaw, to help protect them from the feuding trekboers (nomadic Afrikaans farmers).

It is in spring (September to November) that the town comes into its own, a fact that resident Vera Engelbrecht couldn’t help but notice. When the desert spring flowers covered the hills and plains around the town, tourists came too. But they had no place to stay.

So she started a little camping and caravan site. Seeing her initiative, a state development agency stepped in to help.

Now Leliefontein Lodge, as it’s called, boasts 6 en-suite rooms, a self-catering kitchen and a large dining room, as well as braai (barbecue) facilities in a beautiful outdoor cooking shelter. Each room has 2 3-quarter beds, a television, air-conditioning and fresh, white linen.

But, says Engelbrecht, many tourists prefer staying in the matjieshuis (traditional 'mat house') accommodation. In these cosy traditional shelters made with bent saplings and many reed mats, you’ll sleep on comfortable beds with proper linen.

Vera and 4 other women co-own Leliefontein Lodge and are also available to cook traditional meals from the area. You can also ask them about demonstrations of the traditional Nama riel dance, which has a gripping rhythm that just makes you want to take to the floor.

Other activities include exploring the historic church precinct where an old sundial stands in the pastor’s yard. The lily-ringed water source after which the town was named is here.

In spring, the flowers on these calcite hills are magnificent, and since the town is full of things to see and surrounded by lovely drives, it’s an excellent place to be based for a Namaqualand flower safari.