Did you know?
According to legend, Leydsdorp was declared a city for a day – by Boer President Paul Kruger.
Just off the R71 from Tzaneen in Limpopo province, at the town of Gravelotte, there’s a turn-off to a place called Leydsdorp.
A gentle dirt track leads to what was briefly a gold-boom town that mirrored Mpumalanga’s Pilgrim’s Rest for legend and raucousness.
In the mid-1880s there was a gold rush to the Murchison Range. All the usual gold-rush suspects arrived, people who had been everywhere from Kalgoorlie to the Klondike.
In 1890, a ‘small town with a big cemetery’ was established and named after the state secretary of the old Transvaal. Malaria (then called blackwater fever) took most lives; lions and barroom brawls accounted for most of the rest of the names in the graveyard.
One day a popular local chap called Sandy died. The miners built him a coffin out of beer cases, ensconced him in it and told a couple of labourers to take it to the cemetery while they had drinks in memory of their friend.
When they arrived and lifted the coffin up to carry it to the burial plot, they discovered that it was very light: the bottom had broken out of the makeshift coffin and Sandy’s corpse was nowhere to be found.
They found his body at the side of the road, took him back to the pub and stuck him ‘back in his box’ while they had a few more drinks to discuss the incident. By then it was too late in the day to bury him – the mosquitoes were already massing over at the graveyard.
Characters called Mica Bill, Paraffin Joe, Brandy Smith and The Heavenly Twins mined claims called the Old Birthday, the Flying Dutchman, Antelope and Blue Jacket.
More than 3 000 miners and opportunists gathered in Leydsdorp during its heyday, where no fewer than eight bars slaked their thirst.
Accommodation was hard to find: two miners burrowed into a giant anthill and set up home – they even built a kitchen down there with a stove and a chimney.
Travel tips & Planning info
Who to contact
Cell: +27 (0)71 676 1219
Cell: +27 (0)83 309 6901
How to get here
Take the R71 south from Tzaneen to the small town of Gravelotte and turn right on a dirt road to Leydsdorp. Leydsdorp is about 50km from Tzaneen.
Best time to visit
Anytime of the year is good for a bushveld visit, except maybe the height of summer (January) when temperatures can be daunting.
Around the area
You can take a trip to the Moholoholo Wildlife Sanctuary, the Wolkberg Wilderness area, the northern Kruger National Park, and attractive small towns like Haenertsburg and Hoedspruit. (Check related links.)
Tours to do
Bushveld Safari Tours – check the Hoedspruit Tourism website.
Unless you’re on a tour – in which case you should request a short stop-over in Leydsdorp – it would be best to drive yourself.
What will it cost
As Leydsdorp is currently a ghost town, there is no charge for walking around and observing.
Length of stay
Unless you get caught up at the old hotel or the cemetery just outside Leydsdorp, a quick hour’s visit would be in order.
What to pack
As always with bushveld adventures, dress for walking in the outdoors and keep something warm handy for those winter mornings and evenings.
Where to stay
Leydsdorp lies between Tzaneen and Hoedspruit, and both have websites (listed) that offer a wide range of accommodation options.
What to eat
Best food advice in the bushveld: find a good butchery and buy fresh biltong; also, stop at the roadside stalls and see what looks good.
The Tzaneen and Hoedspruit websites are full of events information, so check if their dates coincide with your visits.
Avocados in season (all year except January and February) are awesome, but there’s always something fresh and tropical to buy in this area.