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Zen elegance among the trees

Phinda Forest Lodge, Phinda Private Game Reserve

Sleep in a sand forest, Phinda. Phinda Forest Lodge bedroom, surrounded by sand forest.

Phinda Forest Lodge in the lush northern KwaZulu-Natal is an architectural masterpiece within a dry sand forest. The lodge's stilted wooden suites have huge windows that allow an intimate connection with the forest. It makes for easy viewing of the rare and tiny suni antelope and duikers that walk below.

Did you know?

The favourite food of crowned eagles is monkeys.

When you 1st see Phinda Forest Lodge, it may seem like a strange fairy kingdom, all set about with torchwood trees and wild vines.

Each exquisitely designed suite is perched delicately on stilts, is completely surrounded by forest, ensuring privacy, and is walled with wood and glass, allowing the forest in.

The suites are furnished in a minimalist, almost Japanese, style – Zen meets Zulu, if you like.

From your little glass palace, you can watch wild animals – the tiny suni antelope and delicate duiker nibbling at shrubs, and bush babies leaping from tree to tree at dusk. And you are surrounded by birdsong and leaf-filtered lights in the mornings.

Phinda Forest Lodge is set within an exceedingly rare ecosystem called sand forest.

Millions of years ago, the sea would have lapped at a shore nearby, and there were sand dunes. But the sea has long since retreated, and a unique forest ecosystem has formed here, distinctly different from normal forests. For a start, you won't see the moisture-loving ferns you'd normally see in a forest. And the leaf litter here disappears quite quickly, consumed by termites.

It also has certain plants that are found nowhere else, and is 1 of the best places to see the rare Neergard's sunbird. Also look out for the pink twinspot and Woodward's batis, along with the crowned eagle, which hunts through these forests on the lookout for monkeys.

You may also see the side-striped jackal and Tongaland squirrel.

But that's just the sand forest, which is only 1 of 7 ecosystems at Phinda Private Game Reserve. Apart from having a good chance at seeing the Big 5 here, you also stand an excellent chance of seeing cheetah.

And a very great part of Phinda's attraction is that it is both a bush and beach destination. The 23 500-hectare reserve neighbours the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, and is only a 20-minute flight from some of the finest beaches in South Africa.

But if you'd like something a little closer, there's always the rim-flow pool nearby. Just follow the duiker tracks...

Travel tips & Planning info

Who to contact

Phinda Private Game Reserve
Tel: +27 (0)11 809 4300
Email: talktous@andbeyond.com

How to get here

By far the easiest way to get to Phinda is by flying to Richard's Bay (there are regular flights) and then take the light plane shuttle to Phinda. Alternately, you could hire a car and drive the 2 hours to Phinda from Richard's Bay. There is also the option of flying to Durban and then driving 3 to 4 hours to reach Phinda. Driving from Johannesburg will take about 7 hours. You can download self-drive directions from Phinda's website.

Tours to do

Apart from the usual bush activities (game drives and walks), there are number of activities (costed separately) that might tempt you. You could go on an aerial tour of Phinda. You could scuba dive at nearby Sodwana Bay. Or you could hone your bush skills with a birding trip, black rhino tracking or by joining up with leopard researchers. Phinda also offers horseback trails, a Zulu village tour and a drive to see turtles laying their eggs in season.

Get around

Apart from game drives, you can go on interpretive bush walks, or even canoe down the Mzinene River, looking out for wild animals coming down to drink.

What will it cost

Depending on the season, your rates will be between approx. R4 000 and R7 000 per person per night. This includes accommodation, transfers, all game activities, most alcoholic and soft drinks, laundry and emergency medical evacuation insurance.

Length of stay

This is the kind of destination where you could spend a week. 2 or 3 nights should be your minimum.

What to eat

Phinda specialises in sophisticated pan-African cuisine.