Did you know?
The Grosvenor was shipwrecked near Mkhambathi Nature Reserve in 1782, allegedly with vast treasures.
Mkhambathi Nature Reserve is a place of waterfalls – quite apart from its other wonders. Treat yourself to a solitary half-hour at one.
You’ll inhale the cool, minty smell arising from the tea-coloured water as it plummets into a cream froth below. Around you, quite likely, will be the pointed ovate leaves of a wild frangipani, milkplum, and tiny natural rock gardens adorned with ferns, mosses and mysterious miniature succulents.
The air will fill with tumbling cool water vapour and you’ll see the moving turquoise sea through the trees.
There are at least six of these beautiful places, with one that falls directly into the sea.
Does this give enough of a hint that Mkhambathi (also sometimes spelled Mkambati) is a special place? Here on the Wild Coast you might see a herd of eland ambling on the beach. Blue wildebeest roam through the wild banana palms. There are blue duiker in the indigenous forests, and vervet monkeys in the trees. A colony of Cape vultures soar over the dizzying cliff-faces of the Msikaba River gorge.
And then there’s that irresistible long beach. In the winter months of June and July you might be there when great shoals of sardines migrate northwards, followed by whales, sharks, dolphins, clouds of Cape gannets and other birds.
You could also canoe up the Mtentu River, admiring the vegetation and the birdlife. This is the only place in the world where you’ll find the Mkambati (or Mkomba) Palm, after which the reserve was named.
And the birdlife is an attraction of its own. The combination of coastline, open grasslands, wetlands and indigenous forest combine for a finger-itching tick-list. Look out for yellow-throated and orange-throated long-claws, croaking cisticolas, Gurney’s sugarbird and red-shouldered widows, to mention a few. Plus, of course, the Cape vultures.
But what will steal your heart (and eat up your camera’s memory card) will be the clear rivers and tumbling waterfalls.