The Karoo, a sprawling semi-desert in the centre of the country, is one of the quietest places on the planet. For these and other reasons, it naturally lends itself to contemplation and spirituality. Karoo farm Poplar Grove farm south of Colesberg hosts Zen Buddhist retreats and comfortable country farm stays.

Did you know?

Poplar Grove’s farmhouse dates back to the 1850s and the poplars were planted for building materials.

In the quiet Karoo semi-desert, just south of the town of Colesberg, lies a farm called Poplar Grove. Here Margie and Antony Osler host Zen retreats, farm stays, facilities for groups and workshops for children in distress.

The Zen Buddhist retreats are hosted here for up to 15 people, four times a year. They are usually led by Antony Osler, who is a well-known Buddhist teacher and writer.

Retreats are inspired by farm life and by open-hearted attention to daily activities. There are meditation sessions in the stone Zendo which used to be a sheep-shearing shed.

Participants go on long sunrise and sunset walks and do limited manual labour. There are instruction times and individual interviews.

In some years, artistic retreats are offered by respected painter JP Meyer. Marguerite van der Merwe, author of The Art of Walking, holds annual short workshops on naturally balanced body functioning at Poplar Grove.

Zen Master Dae Gak of Furnace Mountain in Kentucky comes over from the United States to lead a Zen retreat every alternate year.

Poplar Grove offers farm stay accommodation throughout the year, not only during retreats. Most visitors opt for their self-catering cottage with a broad stoep (Afrikaans for 'verandah'), but there are other rooms and ‘hermitages’ available on the farm. Like the beautiful meditation hall, the hermitages are made from stone. Each one has a stoep or open space that invites contemplation.

The views are of wide open Karoo landscapes, distant horizons, ironstone hills and distant tree thickets. You’ll see plenty of birdlife, including jackal buzzards, storks, herons, cisticolas, larks, bishops, weavers, starlings, swallows and swifts. The hills are full of rock rabbits and antelope. The sheltered ponds in the riverbed are home to singing frogs.

The Oslers also host abused and traumatised children for play and counseling. Any donations from visitors for these happiness weekends are very welcome.

Poplar Grove also welcomes other groups, by arrangement, who want to use the facilities and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.

Travel tips & Planning info

Who to contact

Poplar Grove
Margie Osler
Tel: +27 (0)753 1356
Cell: +27 (0)82 816 5903

How to get here

Colesberg is on the N1 highway and is less than five hours’ drive from Port Elizabeth, six hours from Johannesburg and eith hours from Cape Town. Just south of Colesberg, on the N9 towards Middelburg and Port Elizabeth, take the turnoff onto the Oorlogspoort road.

Continue on this good gravel road for about 24km before finding the first sign to Poplar Grove. From here, it’s another 3km or so. Call ahead before you leave to find out if there has been heavy rain, which might affect the condition of the roads.

Best time to visit

The shoulder seasons of March/April and September/October are the most temperate times, weather-wise.

Summers (November to March) can be very hot during the day, and in winter (May to August), night time temperatures can plummet well below freezing.

In summer, the birdlife is spectacular.

Visitors are welcome throughout the year and retreats are held in all seasons.

What will it cost

Week-long retreats cost approx R2 500 per person, all inclusive. Staying at the cottage outside of retreats costs approx. R250 per person per night.

Length of stay

If coming outside of retreats, stay at least two nights or more to truly appreciate the quiet rhythms of a Karoo farm.

What to pack

Desert nights can be chilly, even in summer. Conversely, winter days can be quite warm, so bring appropriate, comfortable clothing and good walking shoes. Add binoculars if you’re interested in birds and stars.

Where to stay

The self-catering cottage and hermitages don’t have electricity but there are candles, paraffin lamps and hot water. The cottage is equipped with a gas stove and an outside (electric) fridge.

What to eat

During retreats, vegetarian meals are served. If you stay at the self-catering cottage, you’ll find fresh eggs, farm milk, bread and butter in the fridge.

Best buys

Antony Osler has written two remarkable books, Stoep Zen and Zen Dust. You can buy these at Poplar Grove at a better price than most book shops.

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