Thonga Beach Lodge, KwaZulu-Natal
Did you know?Local people from the Tsonga community are shareholders in Thonga Beach Lodge.
Thonga Beach Lodge is a romantic luxury hideaway set in a coastal milkwood forest, just a short walk away from a white sand beach and some of South Africa’s best tropical reef diving.
The lodge falls within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, which was one of South Africa’s first World Heritage Sites, declared on the same day in 1999 as the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site and the Robben Island World Heritage Site. At iSimangaliso, the delicate coastal dune-forest ecology meets savannah bushveld and a string of biodiverse and intriguing inland lakes.
One of these lakes is Lake Sibaya, which is only 25 minutes’ drive away from the lodge. Thonga Beach Lodge offers kayaking trips along the lake’s shoreline. If you’re a birder, this is a good place to see the only fruit-eating vulture in the world – the palmnut vulture. It is also home to Pel’s fishing owl (which is so seldom seen it has attained near-mythical status) and the charming pygmy goose.
iSimangaliso might just as well have been named Bird Central: there are more than 500 bird species in this semi-tropical part of the world. Look out for crocodiles and hippos too.
In summer months (October to March), Thonga (pronounced ‘Tonga’) offers turtle tracking safaris at night. Enormous leatherbacks and loggerheads lumber ashore, dig holes in the sand and lay their eggs. In late summer, the babies hatch and tiny turtles struggle down to the water’s edge. Years hence, those grown-up hatchlings will be coming ashore to lay eggs on this very beach.
Rates include a visit to a nearby Tsonga homestead, where you can meet local people and learn about their culture and heritage.
But it’s the diving and snorkelling that people come back for, year after year. The warm Indian Ocean offers up bottlenose dolphins, whale sharks, manta rays, giant turtles, Moorish idols and parrotfish, among many other species. There are 1 250 recorded species here, which compares rather well with the Great Barrier Reef, with 1 500.
On the other hand, it’s practically compulsory to set aside a day or two to just lie on the pristine beach, gazing at the clear waves and those adorable three-banded plovers.
Travel tips & Planning info
Who to contact
Tel: +27 (0)35 474 1473 or +27 (0)35 474 1490
How to get here
The closest major city is Durban, which is about 300km away (about a three- or four-hour drive). See the listed Isibindi Africa Lodges website for detailed directions. Please note that the lodge is not accessible by two-wheel drive vehicles. Two-wheel drive vehicles can park at a designated area about an hour from the lodge, from where twice-daily transfers are arranged.
Around the area
The iSimangaliso Wetland Park has identified what it calls its 10 jewels (it’s certainly not every area that has this wealth of species and options). These include: Kosi Bay, Sodwana Bay, Lake Sibaya, the coastal forest, the eastern and western shores of Lake St Lucia, the estuary and uMkhuze, where you can see most of the Big Five.
Tours to do
Doing a turtle tracking tour is a memorable experience and comes highly recommended. Other activities at Thonga Beach Lodge include surf fishing and fly-fishing (catch and release).
What will it cost
Ocean-view rooms are approx R3 190 per person per night sharing, and forest view rooms are R2 760. Rates include accommodation; all meals; guided walks in the coastal forest; kayaking and a sundowner trip on Lake Sibaya; snorkelling equipment; and a local tour of the Tsonga community.
Length of stay
Three nights would be ideal.
What to pack
Even in winter (May to August) temperatures are pleasantly warm. Bring along what you’d take to a beach, plus binoculars for birds and wildlife.
Where to stay
Great care has been taken not to damage the protected milkwood coastal forest within which 12 luxury suites have been built on stilts. Some offer sea views, and others offer forest views.